Why Refinish?

Your Floors Aren't Done Yet

Before you rip out your hardwood and start over, let's talk. Most hardwood floors can be sanded and refinished multiple times over their lifetime. That means the floors in your 1940s colonial in Gladwyne or your 1970s split-level in Blue Bell might have decades of life left in them — they just need the right hands on them.

Refinishing costs a fraction of replacement and can completely transform a room. Change the color from dated orange oak to a modern gray wash. Go from glossy polyurethane to a matte European oil finish. Or simply sand out 20 years of scratches, pet damage, and wear and bring back the original beauty.

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Hardwood Floor Refinishing Montgomery County

The Smart Decision

Refinish vs. Replace: When Each Makes Sense

After 30+ years in flooring, here's the honest breakdown.

✅ Refinishing Is Right When

Your Wood Has Life Left

Solid hardwood floors can typically be sanded 3–5 times over their lifespan. If your floors are structurally sound but cosmetically tired — scratched, faded, outdated color, worn finish — refinishing is almost always the smarter move. You save 40–60% compared to full replacement and the job takes days, not weeks.

Good candidates: Solid oak, maple, walnut, and hickory floors with at least 1/4" of wood above the tongue. Floors with surface scratches, pet damage, sun fading, or an outdated finish color. Water stains that haven't warped the boards.

🔄 Replacement Is Right When

The Damage Goes Deep

If boards are warped, cupping, buckling, or the subfloor underneath has structural damage, refinishing won't fix the underlying problem. Same goes for floors that have already been sanded too many times — there's not enough wood left to sand again safely. And engineered hardwood with a thin veneer layer often can't be refinished at all.

Replace when: Boards are warped or cupping from moisture damage. Subfloor has structural rot or mold. Engineered hardwood with a veneer under 2mm. Floors have been sanded 4+ times already. You want to change from hardwood to a completely different material.

Not sure which you need? We'll come out, look at your floors, and tell you straight. If refinishing makes sense, we'll do it. If your floors need to be replaced, we'll tell you that too — and give you options. No pressure either way. That's what 30 years of reputation buys you.

Our Process

How We Refinish Your Floors

Every step matters. Here's what a proper refinishing job looks like.

1

Assessment & Prep

We inspect your floors and subfloor to confirm refinishing is the right call. We check wood thickness, identify any structural issues, and discuss your goals — color change, sheen level, or just a refresh. Then we prep the space: furniture protection, dust containment, and sealing off adjacent rooms.

2

Sanding

We use professional-grade drum and edger sanders with dust containment systems to minimize airborne dust. Multiple passes with progressively finer grits remove the old finish, scratches, and imperfections down to fresh, clean wood. Corners, closets, and edges get hand-sanded for a consistent result everywhere.

3

Staining (optional)

Want to change the color? We apply your chosen stain evenly across the entire floor, working in sections to avoid lap marks. We offer the full range — from natural (no stain, just the wood's own color) to rich walnut, classic cherry, modern gray, weathered white, and everything in between. We always do a test area first so you can see the actual color on your actual wood before we commit.

4

Sealing & Finish Coats

We apply multiple coats of professional-grade finish — typically 2 to 3 coats of polyurethane (oil-based or water-based) or a hardwax oil, depending on your preference. Each coat is lightly buffed between applications for proper adhesion. The finish protects your investment and determines the final look: high gloss, satin, or matte.

✓

Final Walkthrough

We walk the entire floor with you under proper lighting. We check every transition, corner, and edge. The floor needs to cure before furniture goes back — we'll tell you exactly how long based on the finish type and conditions in your home. Typically 24–48 hours for light traffic, 5–7 days before rugs and heavy furniture.

Popular Stain Colors

Transform Your Floors with Color

The most popular stain choices we see across Montgomery County homes. We bring samples to your home so you can see them against your walls and lighting.

Natural

No stain — just the wood's natural beauty with a protective clear coat. Lets the grain speak for itself. Great for white oak and maple.

Golden Oak

Warm honey tones. The classic hardwood look that works in traditional and transitional homes. A safe, versatile choice.

Walnut

Rich, deep brown with warmth. One of our most popular choices. Hides wear well and gives any room a grounded, sophisticated feel.

Cherry

Warm reddish-brown tones. Beautiful in formal dining rooms, studies, and traditional homes. Adds richness and character.

Gray Wash

Modern, contemporary, and trending heavily. Especially popular on white oak. Gives a coastal or Scandinavian vibe that opens up a room.

Espresso / Ebony

The darkest option. Dramatic, bold, and modern. Shows dust more easily but makes a powerful design statement. Popular in high-end renovations.

Pro tip from Andy: The same stain looks different on different wood species. Red oak absorbs stain differently than white oak, and maple can be blotchy with darker stains. That's why we always do a test patch on your actual floor before committing. It takes 5 minutes and prevents expensive surprises.

Finish Types

Choosing the Right Finish

Oil-Based Polyurethane

The industry workhorse. Adds a warm amber tone that deepens over time. Extremely durable, especially in high-traffic areas. Takes longer to dry (8–12 hours between coats) and has a stronger odor during application, but the finished result is tough and beautiful. Most of the homes on the Main Line have this finish.

Satin Semi-Gloss High Gloss

Low Odor / Fast Dry

Water-Based Polyurethane

Dries crystal clear with no yellowing — what you see after staining is what you get long-term. Lower odor and faster dry times (2–4 hours between coats), so you're back in the house sooner. Slightly less durable than oil-based, but modern formulations have closed the gap significantly. Great choice if you want to preserve the wood's natural color.

Matte Satin Semi-Gloss

European / Designer Choice

Hardwax Oil

Penetrates into the wood rather than sitting on top like polyurethane. Gives a natural, matte look that you can feel — the wood texture comes through. Spot-repairable, which is a big advantage: if one area gets scratched, you can fix just that spot without redoing the whole floor. Popular in high-end design projects and European-style interiors.

Matte Natural

Commercial / Maximum Durability

Conversion Varnish

The hardest finish available. Two-component system that chemically cures for maximum scratch and chemical resistance. Used in commercial settings, restaurants, and homes with very heavy traffic. Requires professional application with proper ventilation. Not commonly needed in residential settings, but we offer it when the situation calls for it.

Satin Semi-Gloss

Common Questions

Floor Refinishing FAQ

How long does refinishing take?

Most single-room jobs take 2–3 days. A whole house typically runs 4–7 days depending on size, stain, and finish type. Oil-based poly needs more dry time between coats than water-based.

How much does hardwood refinishing cost?

In the Montgomery County area, expect $3–6 per square foot for a standard sand-and-refinish. Custom staining, repairs, or specialty finishes like hardwax oil may be additional. We provide exact pricing at your free assessment — no guesswork.

Can I stay in my home during refinishing?

Yes, but you'll want to avoid the rooms being worked on. Oil-based finishes have stronger fumes — we recommend staying elsewhere for 24–48 hours after the final coat if possible. Water-based finishes have much lower odor and you can typically stay in the home. We always discuss this during the assessment.

Can engineered hardwood be refinished?

It depends on the wear layer thickness. Engineered floors with a 2mm+ veneer can usually be lightly sanded and refinished once. Thinner veneers (common in cheaper products) can't be safely sanded. We'll check your specific flooring and give you an honest answer.

What about dust? Is dustless sanding really dustless?

"Dustless" is the industry term, but "dust-minimized" is more accurate. Our equipment captures 95%+ of dust at the source. There's always some fine particulate, which is why we seal off rooms with plastic sheeting and clean thoroughly after. It's dramatically better than the old days, but it's not zero dust.

How do I know if my floors have been refinished too many times?

We check the wood thickness at transitions, vents, or by pulling a small section. Solid 3/4" hardwood can typically handle 3–5 sandings. If the nails or tongue are showing through, the floor is too thin. We'll tell you upfront if refinishing is still an option.

Can you fix just part of my floor?

Spot repairs are possible but tricky — getting a seamless color match on a partial refinish is difficult with polyurethane finishes. With hardwax oil, spot repairs blend much better. We'll discuss the options and set realistic expectations. Sometimes it makes more sense to refinish the whole room for a consistent result.

Floor Refinishing Service Areas

Serving All of Montgomery County

Gladwyne Villanova Bryn Mawr Merion Station Wynnewood Bala Cynwyd Ardmore Narberth Penn Valley Haverford Lower Merion Blue Bell Lafayette Hill Spring House Fort Washington Dresher Lower Gwynedd Whitpain Township Upper Dublin Worcester Township Conshohocken West Conshohocken Lansdale Ambler North Wales Collegeville Wyndmoor Glenside Jenkintown Flourtown Oreland Plymouth Meeting King of Prussia Chestnut Hill

Hardwood Floor Refinishing